FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
The following are questions that are frequently asked regarding the Spintric © Air/Oil Separator. If your question is not answered here, please email us at email@example.com
Q - Which Spintric I, II, or III will I need?
A – Spintric I is good for those engines that are moving of oil per minute and have a 2 stage pump.
Spintric II is for those.
Q - How much does the Spintric weigh?
A – The Spintric weighs Lbs or Kg
Q - Can the Spintric be mounted vertically?
A – Yes the Spintric can be mounted in either a horizontal of vertical position.
Q - Where and how should I mount the vent/catch can?
A – View pictures of our new Cast CNC 7007A Dry Sump Oil Tank installed in a ZO6 Corvette. Note position of vent can and height so that the line from vent can slopes gradually to the top of the dry sump tank. This applies to all tanks. Otherwise there can be a “toilet trap” effect in the vent line, or simple filling of the vent can with oil mist accumulating in the line.
Q - What size Dry Sump Tank should I use?
A – There are several factors in choosing the size of your Dry Sump Tank.
First is location or where you plan to mount it. This varies greatly and depends on the type of race car. Most production type race cars do not offer a lot of good choices, however, the best choice, if it is possible, would be in the passengers compartment. Not only is there ample room, but it is relatively close to the engine and perfect for weight distribution. Be sure to check the rules for your sanctioning body. Some do not allow them in the drivers compartment, others require that a separate tank enclose the dry sump tank. For Formula and Sports Racing cars the tank location has usually been selected by the car designer. Otherwise use the parameters as mentioned in production race cars.
Second factor, most importantly is Oil Volume. Oil is, after all, the life blood of your racing engine. Some racers are quick to want a small tank because it “fits better”, forgetting that this is supplying all the oil for your high dollar engine. Expecting a 7 liter 800 HP engine to survive on 5 quarts of oil is pushing your luck, especially in high lateral G racing. We use all the laws of physics and fluid dynamics to design our dry sump tanks (as well as all our pans) to enable them to overcome the extreme acceleration and lateral (as well as braking) forces, and this achieves amazing results. High tech race tested baffles, “fluidic” scavenge return line internally, adn venting control is the trademark oa ARE and Spintric Technologies dry sump oil tanks and systems.
Along with this, common sense goes a long way in selecting a tank. Always try to use the tallest, or biggest tank you can make fit, even if it means moving the tank to another location in the race car. See tank sizes here Dry Sump Cast A-Series Oil Tanks Sizes. Read below about fitting sizes and tank pre-heaters.
ALSO when we say “size of tank” ie: 2 gallon, 2.5 gallon or 3 gallon, this equals the volume of the tank including the air gap at the top.
Q - What size fittings should I use on my Dry Sump Tank?
A – For most Dry Sump Tanks, use the same size fittings as there are on the scavenge outlet and pressure inlet on your Dry Sump Pump. Most racing engines use -12 or -16. This is based on your racing engines oil demands, and the tank fittings need to be the same. In Dry Sump Tanks that are mounted in the trunk, or are more than a few feet away, I recommend using -16 (or larger in some cars) supply line from bottom of tank to pressure stage inlet. This allows a better flow of oil supply to the pump, especially in colder climates. We recommend a tank preheater for use in colder climates.
Q - What about cold environments? Anything different?
A – Yes the obvious thing is a lower viscosity oil, however, due to the larger clearances and higher loads in racing, this often results in oil pressure loss when hot. We recommend using an oil heater in colder environments. All Spintric Technologies / ARE CNC tanks are equipped with the pre machined port in the bottom. These heaters are either 110 volt or 220 volt, and are supplied with a removable 6′ plug. The heating element is plugged in 4-6 hours before the engine will be run to get oil temp up to 150-180 degrees.In dry sump tanks that are mounted in the trunk, or that are more than a few feet away, I recommend using -16 (or larger on some cars) supply line from the bottom of the tank to pressure stage inlet. This allows a better flow of oil supply to the pump, especially in colder climates. A tank pre heater is also a good idea here.(also when we say “size of tank ie: 2 gallon, 2.5 gallon or 3 gallon” we mean it is the “size of tank including air gap at top”)
Q - How do I check or be sure the oil level is correct in my tank?
A – In a dry sump engine, because the oil pan/sump is designed to be mostly dry, the engine needs to have been running just before the level in the tank is checked! This allows the scavenge pumps to “scavenge” most of the oil out of engine and put it in the tank where it belongs.Spintric Technologies / ARE tanks will either have a dipstick supplied or the level will be right at the top baffle in the top of the tank.
Q - What type oil filter should be used on the A R E 4010 filter adapter?
A – We recommend a Wix #51060R , ARE # WIX4, Or Fram HP4 These fit small block Chevy 327-350 and are very common. More importantly, the filters have a high bypass rating so virtually every drop of your oil will be filtered.
Q - How to Check Oil Levels in Spintric Dry Sump Tanks
A – Spintric Technologies currently sells 2 different types of Dry Sump Tanks.
First determine if you have our NEW Cast Top & Bottom/CNC tank (on your invoice the part number would have an “A” in it, 7007A, 7020A etc.)
The other type of tank we sell would be a “Fabricated” top and bottom tank and the part number would NOT have the letter “A” in it.
On both types of tanks, to check the oil, you must do so immediately after the engine is shut off. Do not check oil after engine has been sitting for a while as some of the oil will find its way back into the pan via gravity and you will get an incorrect tank level reading (this can happen in just a few minutes).
For the Cast Top/Bottom tank check oil immediately after engine is shut off by removing plug in center of the top of the tank and inserting the dipstick provided with the tank.
For the Fabricated tank, check oil immediately after engine is shut off by removing the cap and look at oil level through the cap/filler hole. The oil level should be at or just below the slotted or screened baffle at the upper portion of the tank.
These are pics of our new Cast CNC 7007A Dry Sump Oil Tank installed in a ZO6 Corvette. Note position of vent can and height so that the line from vent can slopes gradually to the top of the dry sump tank. This applies to all tanks. Otherwise there can be a “toilet trap” effect in the vent line, or simple filling of the vent can with oil mist accumulating in the line.